This free downloadable recipe calculator converts the percentages below into any batch size (grams):- http://www.makingskincare.com/recipe-calculator/
Exotic Body Lotion Recipe
73.45% deionised/purified water
0.3% dissolvine GL
0.2% xanthan gum (although xanthan is water soluble, putting it in the oil phase prevents clumping)
0.1% pure vitamin E pourable (this can be substituted for rosemary extract. Rosemary extract goes into the cool down phase)
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% silk amino acids
0.3% sodium benzoate (dissolve in water before adding)
0.2% neroli essential oil
citric acid as necessary (see below) to change the pH to 5 for the preservative to work. (Comment from Soapkitchen: Accurate pH adjustment is important for the preservative to be effective and pH meters are the best option for accurate measurement. They are available from The Soap Kitchen (and many other retailers), however for a less accurate estimation at a lesser cost you may choose to use pH papers.)
Weigh your WATER PHASE into a double boiler/bain marie and cover the top with cling film/plastic wrap to prevent water evaporation.
- Heat (with cling film/plastic wrap over the top to prevent water evaporation, otherwise approx 10-20% water evaporates) to around 75°C/165°F and then hold it at around that temperature for 20 minutes.
While your water phase is heating, weigh your OIL PHASE into a double boiler/bain marie (no need to cover it).
- Heat to roughly the same temperature as the water phase.
Weigh your cool down phase ingredients into a container.
After the water phase has had 20 minutes at around 75°C/165°F and the oil phase is also at that temperature
- Slowly pour one of the phases into the other and mix 3-5 minutes with the stick blender on high.
- Mix periodically with the stick blender as the temperature drops.
If you are making less than a 300g batch of lotion, the stick blender may not work so we advise using a mini mixer instead.
(Please do not use an ordinary milk/coffee frother or whisk or spoon/fork as most emulsifiers need high shear. A stick blender/recommended mini mixer is best used for more stability).
When the lotion cools down to 45°C/110°F, add your cool down phase ingredients and mix very well.
Allow the lotion to continue to cool to room temperature. Make up a solution containing half deionised water and half citric acid, use one drop of this solution at a time to change the pH to 5 so that sodium benzoate becomes active. (Comment from Soapkitchen: Accurate pH adjustment is important for the preservative to be effective and pH meters are the best option for accurate measurement. They are available from The Soap Kitchen (and many other retailers), however for a less accurate estimation at a lesser cost you may choose to use pH papers.)
Put your lotion into jars/bottles once it is at room temperature.
Jane also runs online e-learning courses on how to make natural skin, body and hair products: http://www.makingskincare.com/product/certificate-in-making-natural-lotions-body-butters-creams/