Vitamin C is often found in commercially available anti-aging creams and moisturisers. Vitamin C is actually an anti-oxidant,so when used in moisturisers is meant to help to stop damage from UV and free radicals. It also reputedly offers some small amount of UV protection, however I would not like to rely on this as a sunscreen.
Vitamin C comes in two forms. L-ascorbic acid which is water soluble so can be added to the water phase or simply stirred into your ready made moisturiser. However the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C does oxidise if exposed to heat so I simply stir this in at the end of the making process since adding the heat needed to make your moisturiser could oxidise this before it ever gets used as a moisturiser.
Ascorbyl palmitate which is oil soluble must be added to the oil phase. Ascorbyl Palmitate is the more stable ester form of vitamin C and is reputedly readily absorbed by the skin where it can combat the free radicals that lead to unhealthy and aging skin. L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate can be obtained from health food suppliers or online from companies like Amazon. Once opened you need to keep both forms of vitamin C in a dark container and use quite quickly because it does oxidise.
For this recipe I have used the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C which is more easy to obtain. Although I personally have reservations about how effective anti-aging creams really are this does seem to make my skin feel and look good. I have been using this particular cream for several weeks now and am very happy with the results.
To read more about The Benefits of Vitamin C & Ascorbic Acid
- 207g Water
- 2g Grapeseed oil
- 10g Carrot tissue oil
- 3g evening primrose oil
- 5g Borage oil
- 2g peach kernel oil
- 3g sea buckthorn oil
- 7g mango butter
- 12g apricot butter
- 11g shea butter
- 6g vegetable glycerine
- 0.5g citric acid
- 10g cetearyl acid
- 10g steareth-21
- 5g stearic acid
- 0.2g L-ascorbic acid – food grade powder
- 2ml lavender essential oil
- 2ml camomile essential oil
- 11 drops( from a dropper bottle) ylangylang essential oil
- To make this weigh out all the ingredients into small bowls
- Reserve the L-ascorbic acid and essential oils to use later.
- Add all ingredients except for your L-ascorbic acid and essential oils into the one saucepan.
- Put the saucepan over a gentle heat or on a double boiler and wait until the solid butters have almost completely melted and the emulsifying wax will be softening to a gel.
- Whisk the mixture with an electric hand held whisk.
- Continue whisking over the heat until the emulsifying wax has completely mixed with the rest of the ingredients and you have a watery emulsion.
- Take off the heat and continue whisking until the liquid thickens to a creamy consistency and until the mixture is light and fluffy.
- Once the moisturiser has cooled slightly but is still warm stir in the L-ascorbic acid and add the essential oils if using.
- If you decide you wish to add a preservative or anti-oxidant do it now following the manufacturers recommended instructions.
- Pour into a clean sterile container.