Natural & Rustic Soap Using the Perfect Round Mould
This week’s ‘Make it Monday’ recipe shows you how to utilise the packaging of a popular household treat!
Who knew that an empty Pringles tube can double up as the perfect round cold process Soap mould!? Alongside our basic recipe for CP soap, this super simple ‘Make it Monday’ will tell you exactly how to make some rustic and natural round soap bars decorated with fabulous floral petals and botanicals. The colours are lovely AND… you get to finish of a tasty snack before you start. Just make sure your mould is clean of crumbs!
*One Pringle mould will hold 1kg of soap*
Ingredients to make 1kg of soap:
125g Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda)
454g Olive Pomace Oil
284g Coconut Oil
170g Palm Oil
¼ tsp Grapefruit Seed Extract
Natural Colour of your choice (We used Pink Clay)
Botanicals and Decor (e.g. Rose Petals, Himalayan Sea Salt, Oats)
*OPTIONAL* 20ml of Essential Oil or CP Friendly Fragrance Oil
Two good sized stainless steel or enamelled saucepans.
An appropriate mould (Pringle tube or similar)
Measuring equipment – Scales, Spoons and 2 heatproof jugs
Balloon whisk and Wooden/Silicone Spatula
Blanket or large towel
Eyes and Hands Protection
Make sure you have all the ingredients and equipment listed above BEFORE you start and weigh them out into suitable containers ready to use.
Always wear safety goggles/glasses and use protective gloves when soap-making to avoid injury from spills and splashes.
Prepare your round mould. Make sure it’s clean of crumbs and properly washed to remove any unwanted scent. You won’t need a lining for your tube as it’s already perfectly lined with foil.
Measure out 12oz (340g) of cold clean water into a jug. Weigh (accurately) 125g of sodium hydroxide (Caustic Soda). Carefully add the sodium hydroxide to the water, stirring all the time with a spoon or spatula. Be careful not to breathe the vapour that is initially given off, so hold your breath and stir until all the sodium hydroxide has dissolved and there are no lumps stuck to the bottom of the jug.
The solution (now known as Lye) will heat up to nearly 200oF and will need to be left to cool. Place one of the thermometers into the solution and leave to one-side.
If you want to speed the cooling, place the jug in a large bowl of cold water, being careful not to ‘float’ it.
Meanwhile, measure out exactly 10oz (284g) of coconut oil and 6oz (170g) of palm oil into one of the saucepans (the smaller if there is one) and gently melt it on the stove. Don’t overheat it, just melt it. When there are tiny pieces of solid oil still left to melt, turn off the heat and leave until completely liquid.
Whilst the solid oils are melting, measure out 1lb (454g) of olive oil (pomace grade is best) into the other saucepan (this will be the soap-making pan).
Add your ¼ tsp of Grapefruit Seed Extract to the olive oil. This will act as a preservative.
Once melted, pour the combined coconut and palm oils into the olive oil and mix them all together.
Important… What you now need to do is keep watch on the temperatures of both the oils and the sodium hydroxide solution (Lye). Once both oils and lye are at near similar temperatures they can be combined. Don’t let everything get too cool. As a guide a minimum of around 80oF and a maximum of around 130oF are ideal limits of temperature. As long as oils and lye are both at similar temperatures between these limits your soap should turn out just fine.
When at the correct temperatures, slowly and carefully pour the lye into the oils, and start stirring (preferably with a hand (balloon) whisk to ensure the mixture all starts to chemically react and combine.
You should stir throughout the mixture fairly briskly. You will notice the solution start to turn more opaque and as the minutes pass it will start to thicken. The stage in the process you have to wait for is known as the ‘Trace’. This is when you can drizzle the mixture from the whisk (or spoon/spatula) onto the surface of the solution and it leaves a visible trace before sinking back into the rest.
Once you have reached a light trace, it is time to add in the Pink Clay or your chosen colour. We added a small amount of clay at a time till we reached the desired colour. It is important to know that if you are using clay or a similar powder colourant, that you may want to give it really good whisk or a very quick blast with a stick blender to break up the colour particles.
Add your chosen fragrance or essential oil. This is optional.
Pour in to your clean mould and cover with towel.
*Leave to saponify over 48 hours*
One you have uncovered your soap after 48 hours, slice it in the thick soap rounds.
Your soap should be soft enough to press your chosen botanicals in to the surface. See picture below.
Leave your soap to cure for 3-4 weeks in a dry and warm place like an airing cupboard.