Natural & Rustic Soap Using the Perfect Round Mould!

Title image of rustic mould

Natural & Rustic Soap Using the Perfect Round Mould

This week’s ‘Make it Monday’ recipe shows you how to utilise the packaging of a popular household treat!

Who knew that an empty Pringles tube can double up as the perfect round cold process Soap mould!? Alongside our basic recipe for CP soap, this super simple ‘Make it Monday’ will tell you exactly how to make some rustic and natural round soap bars decorated with fabulous floral petals and botanicals. The colours are lovely AND… you get to finish of a tasty snack before you start.  Just make sure your mould is clean of crumbs!

Pringles rustic Mould

 *One Pringle mould will hold 1kg of soap*

Ingredients to make 1kg of soap:

340ml Water

125g Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda)

454g Olive Pomace Oil

284g Coconut Oil

170g Palm Oil

¼ tsp Grapefruit Seed Extract

Natural Colour of your choice (We used Pink Clay)

Botanicals and Decor (e.g. Rose Petals, Himalayan Sea Salt, Oats)

*OPTIONAL* 20ml of Essential Oil or CP Friendly Fragrance Oil



Two good sized stainless steel or enamelled saucepans.

An appropriate mould (Pringle tube or similar)

Measuring equipment – Scales, Spoons and 2 heatproof jugs

Balloon whisk and Wooden/Silicone Spatula

Blanket or large towel


Eyes and Hands Protection


Step 1:

Make sure you have all the ingredients and equipment listed above BEFORE you start and weigh them out into suitable containers ready to use.
Always wear safety goggles/glasses and use protective gloves when soap-making to avoid injury from spills and splashes.

Step 2:

Prepare your round mould. Make sure it’s clean of crumbs and properly washed to remove any unwanted scent. You won’t need a lining for your tube as it’s already perfectly lined with foil.

Step 3:

Measure out 12oz (340g) of cold clean water into a jug. Weigh (accurately) 125g of sodium hydroxide (Caustic Soda). Carefully add the sodium hydroxide to the water, stirring all the time with a spoon or spatula. Be careful not to breathe the vapour that is initially given off, so hold your breath and stir until all the sodium hydroxide has dissolved and there are no lumps stuck to the bottom of the jug.

Step 4:

The solution (now known as Lye) will heat up to nearly 200oF and will need to be left to cool. Place one of the thermometers into the solution and leave to one-side.
If you want to speed the cooling, place the jug in a large bowl of cold water, being careful not to ‘float’ it.

Step 5:

Meanwhile, measure out exactly 10oz (284g) of coconut oil and 6oz (170g) of palm oil into one of the saucepans (the smaller if there is one) and gently melt it on the stove. Don’t overheat it, just melt it. When there are tiny pieces of solid oil still left to melt, turn off the heat and leave until completely liquid.

Step 6:

Whilst the solid oils are melting, measure out 1lb (454g) of olive oil (pomace grade is best) into the other saucepan (this will be the soap-making pan).
Add your ¼ tsp of Grapefruit Seed Extract to the olive oil. This will act as a preservative.

Step 7:

Once melted, pour the combined coconut and palm oils into the olive oil and mix them all together.

Step 8:

Important… What you now need to do is keep watch on the temperatures of both the oils and the sodium hydroxide solution (Lye).  Once both oils and lye are at near similar temperatures they can be combined. Don’t let everything get too cool. As a guide a minimum of around 80oF and a maximum of around 130oF are ideal limits of temperature. As long as oils and lye are both at similar temperatures between these limits your soap should turn out just fine.

Step 9:

When at the correct temperatures, slowly and carefully pour the lye into the oils, and start stirring (preferably with a hand (balloon) whisk to ensure the mixture all starts to chemically react and combine.


Step 10:

You should stir throughout the mixture fairly briskly. You will notice the solution start to turn more opaque and as the minutes pass it will start to thicken. The stage in the process you have to wait for is known as the ‘Trace’. This is when you can drizzle the mixture from the whisk (or spoon/spatula) onto the surface of the solution and it leaves a visible trace before sinking back into the rest.

Step 11:

Once you have reached a light trace, it is time to add in the Pink Clay or your chosen colour. We added a small amount of clay at a time till we reached the desired colour. It is important to know that if you are using clay or a similar powder colourant, that you may want to give it really good whisk or a very quick blast with a stick blender to break up the colour particles.

Step 12:

Add your chosen fragrance or essential oil. This is optional.

Step 13:

Pour in to your clean mould and cover with towel.

*Leave to saponify over 48 hours*

Step 14:

One you have uncovered your soap after 48 hours, slice it in the thick soap rounds.

Step 15:

Your soap should be soft enough to press your chosen botanicals in to the surface. See picture below.

End result

Step 16:

Leave your soap to cure for 3-4 weeks in a dry and warm place like an airing cupboard.

5 thoughts on “Natural & Rustic Soap Using the Perfect Round Mould!

  1. Lovely looking soap! I was wondering if you have measured how much clay you ended up using to reach this colour? I just received my pink clay yesterday and it is very pale. I assume that I will have to use quite a lot to achieve this colour. What is the maximum amount of clay you suggest to use?

    1. Hi JC.

      The amount of clay depends on what recipe you’re going to use, as adding more clay can make your soap very dry.
      Do you know what recipe you’re going to use?

      1. Thank you for the reply. I haven’t decided on a recipe yet. Probably something like 50% olive oil, 25% coconut oil, 20% lard, 5% castor oil. I guess I’ll have to make a small test batch with the pink clay before using it in a whole loaf. Was just a bit surprised about how pale the colour of the dry clay is.

  2. I was wondering if there is an oils which can be substituted for palm oil in all recipes? I’m assuming that the grape seed extract acts as a preservative?

    1. Hi Monique,

      Thank you for your question, the most common substitute for palm oil is shea butter, but as this has slightly different lye properties you would have to re-calculate the recipe to mirror this change, you can find all the details about this here Regarding the grape seed extract, yes that’s correct it acts as an anti-oxidant so the oil keeps fresh, you can also use vitamin E. I hope this helps!

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