#MakeItMonday – Cold Process Confetti Soap!

#Make it Monday – Cold Process Confetti Soap

Title Card - Confetti soap

Yay a new Soap technique!! It’s a very colourful one too.

Last week’s sunshine has got us creatives here at the soap kitchen thinking about tropical fragrances and lots of colour. We also have a bride-to-be amongst us so, why not combine all of these and make fruity and fun confetti soap?

This fabulous soap technique can be done in so many ways and it’s the most perfect way to utilise any old bars of soap hanging around. For our soap bars, we have simply chopped up lots of colourful odds and ends in to little pieces but, if you would prefer, you could grate your colours in to confetti or create little swirls by using a potato peeler to cut up your soap.

We took the opportunity to use an old Pringles tube as a round mould for this but, if you would like rectangular bars of soap, a 1kg loaf mould will be just as good.

Ingredients to make 1kg of soap:

340ml Water

125g Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda)

454g Olive Pomace Oil

284g Coconut Oil

170g Palm Oil

¼ tsp Grapefruit Seed Extract

Titanium Dioxide

Soap Odds and Ends (pre chopped, grated or peeled)

*OPTIONAL* 20ml of Essential Oil or CP Friendly Fragrance Oil – We used Tropical Fruits

 

Equipment:

Two good sized stainless steel or enamelled saucepans.

An appropriate mould to hold 1kg of soap (We used a Pringle tube to make round soap bars)

Measuring equipment – Scales, Spoons and 2 heatproof jugs

Balloon whisk and Wooden/Silicone Spatula

Blanket or large towel

Apron

Eyes and Hands Protection

 

Step 1:

Make sure you have all the ingredients and equipment listed above BEFORE you start and weigh them out into suitable containers ready to use.
*Always wear safety goggles/glasses and use protective gloves when soap-making to avoid injury from spills and splashes.*

Step 2:

Prepare your mould. If you are using a Pringles tube like us, make sure it’s clean of crumbs and properly washed to remove any unwanted scent. You won’t need a lining for your tube as it’s already perfectly lined with foil. If you are using a wooden mould, line it with silicone baking paper. If you are using a silicone mould it will not need lining.

Step 3:

Measure out 12oz (340g) of cold clean water into a jug. Weigh (accurately) 125g of sodium hydroxide (Caustic Soda). Carefully add the sodium hydroxide to the water, stirring all the time with a spoon or spatula. Be careful not to breathe the vapour that is initially given off, so hold your breath and stir until all the sodium hydroxide has dissolved and there are no lumps stuck to the bottom of the jug.

Step 4:

The solution (now known as Lye) will heat up to nearly 200oF and will need to be left to cool. Place one of the thermometers into the solution and leave to one-side.
If you want to speed the cooling, place the jug in a large bowl of cold water, being careful not to ‘float’ it.

Step 5:

Meanwhile, measure out exactly 10oz (284g) of coconut oil and 6oz (170g) of palm oil into one of the saucepans (the smaller if there is one) and gently melt it on the stove. Don’t overheat it, just melt it. When there are tiny pieces of solid oil still left to melt, turn off the heat and leave until completely liquid.

Step 6:

Whilst the solid oils are melting, measure out 1lb (454g) of olive oil (pomace grade is best) into the other saucepan (this will be the soap-making pan).
Add your ¼ tsp of Grapefruit Seed Extract to the olive oil. This will act as a preservative.

Step 7:

Once melted, pour the combined coconut and palm oils into the olive oil and mix them all together.

Step 8:

Important… What you now need to do is keep watch on the temperatures of both the oils and the sodium hydroxide solution (Lye).  Once both oils and lye are at near similar temperatures they can be combined. Don’t let everything get too cool. As a guide a minimum of around 80oF and a maximum of around 130oF are ideal limits of temperature. As long as oils and lye are both at similar temperatures between these limits your soap should turn out just fine.

Step 9:

When at the correct temperatures, slowly and carefully pour the lye into the oils, and start stirring (preferably with a hand (balloon) whisk to ensure the mixture all starts to chemically react and combine.

Step 10:

You should stir throughout the mixture fairly briskly. You will notice the solution start to turn more opaque and as the minutes pass it will start to thicken. The stage in the process you have to wait for is known as the ‘Trace’. This is when you can drizzle the mixture from the whisk (or spoon/spatula) onto the surface of the solution and it leaves a visible trace before sinking back into the rest.

 

Step 11:

Once you have reached a light trace, it is time to add in the Titanium dioxide. We added a small amount of titanium dioxide at a time till we reached the desired colour. It is important to know that if you are using a powder colourant, that you may want to give it really good whisk or a very quick blast with a stick blender to break up the particles.

Be careful with the amount of Titanium dioxide you use as far too much can cause discolouring in your soap bars. This is called ‘Glycerine Rivers’ and it’s only a cosmetic issue so your soap will still be fine to use if you do get these.

Using a little amount at a time till you reach a nice creamy/white colour should be just fine.

Step 12:

Add your tropical fruits fragrance! Mmmmm’ yummy!

Step 13:

Now for the fun part! You should now have a creamy/white soap batter to hand. Grab your mould and colourful soap pieces (confetti) and pour a tiny amount of them in to the bottom of the mould. After that, pour a tiny amount of soap batter and repeat both of those steps till you finish filling the mould.

By doing the technique this way, you are dispersing a nice amount of little colour pieces consistently throughout your soap block and when you cut that block in to bars, your beautiful colours should show up wonderfully in each unique bar.

Step 14:

Use a little cardboard piece to cover the top of your mould and wrap a towel or blanket around it to allow the soap to saponify. Leave this for 24/48 hours in the mould.

Step 15:

One you have uncovered your soap after 24/48 hours; slice it in the thick soap rounds and see those lovely contrasting vibrant colours against the white! It looks and smells like drinking a fruity cocktail!

 

 

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